INFORMAL FESTIVE WOMEN'S MEDALLOIN FOBE FROM RED SILK China, Qing dynasty, Cixi period (1861-1908) L. 134 cm, B. 180 cm Vivid red and navy blue satin silk embroidered with colored silk in satin stitch. Lining: pink and light blue silk. Narrow edgings of dark purple silk with gold patterns. Knotted buttons added later. A pair of butterflies float in the center of each of the eight medallions, surrounded by peonies and other flowers such as lotus and magnolias. The motifs are repeated in the wide robe borders and cuffs. The hem below filled with the diagonal lines of deep water covered by waves, clouds, treasures and rocks are taken from the dragon robes. Characteristic of courtly and festive robes of the late 19th c. are the greatly expanded sleeves, which developed under the influence of dowager empress Cixi. Similarly, the strong orange-red hue did not become popular in Manchurian robes until the 19th c. The color had not been used for a long time because red had been the dynastic color of the previous Ming reign. German private collection, acquired before 2007 Cf.: Similar robe, dated Daoguang, illus.: The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum - Costumes and Accessories of the Qing Court, Hong Kong, 2005, no. 109. Similar robes, late 19th century, ill.: Robert D. Jackson, Imperial Silks: Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, vol. I, Minneapolis, 2000, nos. 97, 98, 101, 102. Minor traces of use, slightly stained